"If no oil is leaking out, it's time to add some!"

 When I started the engine swap project, I listed the following advantages:

Winter 2020 - Engine swap

1.44x torque

1.61(1.56)x wheel torque

2.6x power

-130lbs (70lbs per scale, 95lbs after exhaust)

Alternator replaces generator

robust starter

no oil leaks

6 spds - OD for the highway

remove trans preload

eliminate shifter rattle

8% reduction in Polar Moment of Inertia

2-3" reduction in engine CoM height

Heel-Toe capable gas pedal

Improved shift knob and tunnel shape

Reduced caster

New cross member bushings

Working brake lights (!)

Trunk prop cylinders

Working turn signals

New steering column cowl

So far, that has all come to pass, except the highlighted "no oil leaks".

I made one bad decision and two overestimations of Mazda's engineering prowess.  

First, I am compelled to admit that I was a complete ass.  I was fascinated by the fact the English sized rubber lines that were built into BB 56 years ago, nearly (and here I emphasize "nearly") fit over the steel tubes from the Mazda engine oil cooler passages.  I thought that was a sign that this was meant to be.  So, I put a slight flare on the Mazda steel lines, massaged the MG rubber lines over the flare, and applied a hose clamp.  This worked great for about 10 minutes (as, in hindsight, one would expect!).  I tried a first trip to work and ended up spending 90 minutes looking at this:

That's the oil trail made by my failed 55 year old rubber line as BB bled out on the road.  The drip pattern developed over the 90 minutes as I contemplated my own stupidity while awaiting the tow truck!  So, I bought another $230 worth of parts and got my 5th hat from Summit Racing!

You can see some of the new parts alongside the 55 year old rubber lines.  Rubber was not designed for 55 years of high temperature use.  Fortunately, one can still buy British Standard Pipe fittings, should one be willing to pay up!  The whole thing came out very nice in AN hose and fittings!

So, I naively thought I was done.  But, upon start-up, the front crankshaft seal presented a leak almost as large as the blown hose!  I'm surprised that an engine with (theoretically) 40,000 miles would have a leaking crank seal but the evidence was obvious.  I thought about taking a picture but I was getting soaked in oil.

Now starts another tale.  The front crank seal is a straightforward change except for removing the pulley bolt. That requires something in the neighborhood of 200lb-ft of torque.  Many forum posts and TSB's from Mazda advise great caution.  It seems the crank is supported by a needle thrust bearing with a washer which can fall down and require a rebuild, should one fail to pre-load the crankshaft while removing.  From my time as a manual clutch engineer, I know that the crankshaft has around 20lbs of preload from the release bearing at all times.  This helps prevent finger wear on the clutch by keeping the outer race spinning at clutch speed and, also, keeps the ball bearing kinematics lined up.  Balls tend to skid if they aren't loaded at all.  However, I also know how crazy thing get while prying on a bolt with a 4 foot bar!  Easy to overcome 20lbs of preload!

But, as mentioned earlier, I have an easy time selling myself on a shortcut!  So, I thought, if I put her in 6th gear and apply the torque, surely the ratio will help me!  I should have done some math.  I was easily able to move the entire car up the jackstands.  Fortunately, they are quite stable!

So, I would have to remove the starter and ground the ring gear.  If you've read previous posts, you heard me lament not allowing proper clearance for a wrench upon starter re-assembly.  I would now pay for that oversight!

I spent about 30 minutes trying to ground the nut with the tips of an open end wrench.  Finally, I decided I would need a crow's foot socket.  That was more or less true, but it still required 90 minutes on my back to remove the bolt.  It turns out, I had somehow embedded an aluminum chip in the threads and so I had to use the ratchet, one tooth at a time, for 90 minutes.  Aaaarghh!

But, my therapist and I agree, that's behind me now!  For my comeback tour, I decided to turn the nut (literally and figuratively) into a pressed in insert.  I'm rather more proud of this than the "shortcut" that cost me 90 excruciating minutes!

I turned the nut down to be a press fit into the starter hole and milled a mating flat into the housing and nut.  I then chased the trash out of the threads of the bolt.  Reinstallation required close to 5 minutes!

I wish I could say this story happily ended here.  However, it turns out that Renesis motors leak oil furiously (according to the forums, which, of course, are the source of all truth!).  Perhaps that's why I chose this motor.  I didn't want to give up on mopping up oil under a British roadster!

In any case, there was still a slow drip.  Careful examination showed that only the oil pan could be the culprit.  Strangely, those same forums also indicate frequent oil pan seal changes!  Maybe they are the source of all truth!  Anyway, Permatex Ultra Black seems to have worked the trick!  No more drips!

We ain't never not done it yet!

Keep on having #funwithcars !